How to Use a Safety Razor: A Step-by-Step Guide

Why Use a Safety Razor?

A double-edge (DE) safety razor delivers a closer, smoother shave than a multi-blade cartridge — with far less irritation and at a fraction of the ongoing cost. Once you learn the technique, you'll never look back.

This step-by-step guide will take you from unboxing your razor to finishing your first great shave.

What You'll Need

• A stainless steel 316L safety razor
• A double-edge blade (loaded into the razor)
• A shaving brush and shaving soap or cream
• Warm water and a towel
• Aftershave balm or splash

Step 1: Load the Blade

Unscrew the head of your safety razor and carefully place a fresh DE blade on the base plate — handle the blade by its short ends only, never the cutting edges. Reassemble the razor head and tighten until snug (do not overtighten).

Safety tip: Always hold blades by the short ends. Store used blades in a blade bank or the original wrapper — never loose in the bin.

Step 2: Prepare Your Face

Shave after a hot shower, or splash warm water on your face for at least 30 seconds. The heat softens the beard and opens pores, making the shave significantly more comfortable. Pat your face — don't dry it completely; a little moisture helps the lather adhere.

Step 3: Build and Apply Your Lather

Soak your shaving brush in warm water, shake out the excess, and load it with shaving soap. Apply to your face in circular motions, building a thick, creamy lather that coats every hair. Good lather is the single biggest factor in a comfortable shave.

For a full walkthrough, see: How to Build a Proper Lather with Shaving Soap.

Step 4: Find the Angle

This is the most important technique to master. Hold your safety razor at approximately 30 degrees to your skin. A simple way to find this: place the top cap flat against your cheek, then slowly lower the handle until the blade just begins to contact the skin. That's your angle.

Never press down. The weight of the razor provides all the pressure you need.

Step 5: First Pass — With the Grain (WTG)

Using short strokes (2–3 cm), shave in the direction your hair grows. This is called "with the grain" (WTG). Keep your skin taut with your free hand — stretch the skin flat in the area you're shaving. Rinse the blade under running water every few strokes.

Work methodically: cheeks first, then upper lip, then chin, then neck. Take your time — there's no rush.

Step 6: Re-lather and Second Pass (Optional)

For a closer result, re-apply lather and do a second pass across the grain (XTG) — at a 90-degree angle to your hair growth. This is optional and best attempted once you're comfortable with the razor. Never shave against the grain until you have significant experience.

Step 7: Rinse and Post-Shave

Rinse your face thoroughly with cold water to close the pores. Pat dry gently with a clean towel. Apply an alcohol-free aftershave balm to soothe and moisturise the skin. Your face should feel smooth and comfortable — not tight or burning.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

• Pressing too hard — Let the razor's weight do the work.
• Wrong angle — Too steep causes scraping; too shallow won't cut. Aim for 30°.
• Skipping prep — Dry or poorly prepared skin leads to irritation and nicks.
• Rushing — Short, deliberate strokes beat long, fast ones every time.

Ready to Get Started?

A quality razor makes all the difference. The Frank Shaving Stainless Steel 316L Safety Razor is precision-machined for consistent blade exposure and a perfectly balanced feel — ideal for beginners and experienced wet shavers alike.